Babies learn about the world by putting everything into their
mouths. I have learned what I've learned about the world and people by bumping
and jumping into things - sometimes without looking. This summer I did a blind
experiment: rappelling into three new cities with three different languages and
cultures without doing any research - apart from learning how to say 'hello,'
'please' and 'thank you' in Portuguese and Croatian (I already speak Español
decently well). While this way of being feels liberated and fluid - and is the
way I like to roll, - bumping and jumping has also catapulted me into suffering
on more than one occasion.
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Badass Croatian children |
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Croatia
My brilliant and beloved friend, Nupu |
Three cheers for free-spiritedness. . . it has both inspired and
served me in my travels. Travel has helped create a liminal space - a space
which I use to work internally, to find new ways of seeing the same things. It
is this free-spiritedness - a decision to plant my feet and my expectations
firmly in the air from time to time - that has also brought suffering upon me.
. . suffering that is inevitable when I ignore warning signs - it's a shame
they don't appear as a label across the forehead - or when I lie to myself
about what I can and cannot handle. Suffering occurs when I am intoxicated by
potential - potential that exists primarily in my own magnificent imagination. Suffering
occurs when I ignore disclaimers in favor of my own delusional projections,
allowing myself to be seduced by blank lines, empty space, possibility.
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The Blue Cave and an underwater land bridge |
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Hope is the taste of the sea |
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The Alcazar - Seville, Spain |
The Iberian Peninsula, where Spain and Portugal reside and with
its history of Moorish occupation, is covered in decorative tiles - which, some
argue, are a visual response to the fear of emptiness, or 'horror vacui.' This
kind of visual over-population or crowding is also associated with art made by
artists who resided in psychiatric hospitals and prisons. We seek to fill the
emptiness - the empty stomach, the empty heart. In Buddhism, the space of the
empty mind is actually a goal. Personally I'm afraid of words that are empty -
words that have ceased to hold any shared or enduring meaning, leaving our
communication as little more than lobbing beautiful iridescent bubbles back and
forth. Love. Friendship. Truth.
Despite mine and most of humanity's abiding commitment to
cultivating pleasure and avoiding pain, I also recognize - I've read a few
Buddhist self-help books - that suffering in its embodied and existential forms
is as much or perhaps an even greater opportunity to awaken than all the
gorgeous sun-and-gelato-filled days on the Adriatic with Adonis-like Croatian
sailors. . .not that there's anything wrong with those! Following a trail of
moldy pain crumbs (engage the pun, Francophiles!) out of the gnarled forest of
victimhood and taking full responsibility for whatever I think has been 'done
to' me, I find myself walking in the light of Lisbon. Here, the plaintive
voices of fado echo in the alleyways of the second oldest neighborhood in
Europe. Fado means 'fate' or 'destiny' - it is the Portuguese blues, which give
voice to saudade, or a feeling of longing for what has been lost,
and the damage that loss has done. It is the wreckage left behind after the
hurricane has passed.
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Blinded by birds
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Lisbon |
New York City is a place of becoming, and maybe this is why it has a
heavy energy. It is in a constant state of constructing itself. As its
inhabitants and its builders, we are dragging around the existential sand bags
and 2x4s, trying to invent and reinvent an identity. It's exhausting! It's like
being eternally adolescent. Other cultures know this about us - Americans are
known for our idealistic striving, which is sometimes interpreted as
free-spiritedness. It is a living in 'what could be.' While this quality has
brought a wide variety of delightful innovations into the world - slip n'
slides, wake boarding, scented markers, - it can also set us up for profound
disappointment when we live in what we wish to be true rather than what is. It
is also what can be relieving about being in more 'adult' cities and countries
that have a longer and deeper history - places that know who they are
fundamentally, who have been around the block a few times. Of course, the flip
side of knowing who you are is that you can become complacent and stagnate
there in your self-satisfaction.
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Seville, Spain |
There is a big gap between what New York actually is and its
wannabe self - and that very gap is one I am learning to pay more attention to
in people, especially in myself. Can I accept New York exactly as it is today,
or am I convinced that if it only lives up to its potential - its wannabe self
- then I will be happy? If it never changed, could I be here forever? If I
never changed, could I love me forever? These are the same questions to engage
in all relationships - lest my eternally idealistic storyteller convince me of
something other than what-is. . . until that lovely iridescent bubble bursts
and there is. . . nothing.
Sometimes I think New York is a city that would rather watch
porn than have sex. It would rather text than meet in person. This is the same
tendency I get into with choosing to live in 'what could be' instead of 'what
is.' Right now I am choosing to be with this porn-loving cad of a city, despite
my misgivings - but I need it to know that I am struggling to stay in reality.
I am struggling to not get resentful when it doesn't fulfill its promises, when
I am not the exception to its rules, when it is more neurotic than happy with
itself. Where can I exist that isn't pummeled by natural, political and
economic disasters? Is there a place in the world that is fundamentally happy
with itself, that accepts all that is there - the simple joys, the transcendent
ecstasy of being alive. . . the mundane, the repetitious, the tragic?
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Selfie instant karma |
My dear friend Lya Mojica - yogi, chef and mystic healer are
among her infinite identities - is doing a course on wellness - something
apparently we are all lacking and willing to pay for - because wellness,
coaching and therapy are right up there with wedding planning as socially
required services, achieving status in the educational and professional marketplace.
This is our hunger. Lya told me recently about the distinction made in her
program between 'primary food' and 'secondary food.' Primary food is
relationship - with the self, with others, with life. Primary food is joy,
passion, fulfillment, satisfaction, freedom, engagement with beauty. Secondary
food is what we actually feed ourselves - and it's called secondary because
apparently it's less important than the primary stuff.
Lya tells a story about her aunt, Tia Lupe, who lived into her
90s on a strict diet of cigarettes, coffee and Coca Cola. (I thought the third
thing was motorcycles and preferred to see Tia Lupe cruising around town on a
Vespa than drinking that multinational swill, but Lya set me straight). Tia Lupe
lived in Mexico her whole life, never married or had kids, and lived as she
pleased. She didn't attempt to pedal her way to enlightenment at $35 Soul Cycle
classes or brag about spending $1200 a day on her diet of live sprouted almonds
and magical elixirs only available on Gwyneth Paltrow's website. . . and Tia
Lupe rocked it into her ninth decade. So. Hmm. I guess the wisdom to take from
that example is to put the focus on cultivating relationship with the self,
with others, and with a life that extends beyond the rote instructions delivered
to us about what we are supposed to do, feel, think, want and be. . . which
brings us full-circle back to Buddhism, and embracing everything that's there -
the suffering, all the empty spaces, and the sand bags.
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Sintra, Portugal
Life is full of calamity - some of it predictable, some of it
less so. It is wind and water, it is burning buildings. Sometimes it has orange hair. I look
for survival skills: people who tie knots and build fires, maybe throw down an
anchor occasionally. I look for primary food, for what connects me to what I
have lost. I look for what brings me home. I hunger for this moment. I am
called into its beauty and its misery. I go where it leads.
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